Clearwater River Raft Trip | June 2002

The Clearwater River flows west 295 km / 183 miles from its headwaters at Saskatchewan's Broach Lake to its rendezvous with the Athabasca River near Fort McMurray, Alberta. The upper Clearwater flows through rock of the Precambrian Shield, the remnants of an ancient mountain range long since gone. The middle Clearwater slowly meanders between sandy shores and around small islands. The river changes to rocky shores again as it approaches and enters Alberta. The Clearwater has been known to aboriginal people for hundreds of years; one of the first non-aboriginal people to see it was explorer Peter Pond.

In the spring of 1778, Pond and a small group of fellow Voyageurs began a perilous journey into the uncharted waterways of the northwest. Their goal was to find a way around the fur monopoly of the Hudson's Bay Company. The Hudson's Bay Company's "Rupert's Land" trading rights applied only to lands draining into Hudson's Bay. Pond, with the help of knowledgeable local aboriginal people, learned of a portage that would take him from the Hudson's Bay river system to the Arctic river system (the Clearwater River), beyond the reach of the Hudson's Bay Company.

The Methye Portage, as it came to be known, was used continuously by fur traders, explorers and adventurers until 1886 when it was replaced by a better route. The Methye Portage is still used today by the adventurous seeking to follow in the foot steps of the Voyageurs and experience northern Saskatchewan.

Day 1 - Saskatoon to the Clearwater River

Day one began early. Eleven of us met at a rendezvous point in Saskatoon where we put our dry bags containing all of our belongings into the trailer being towed by a 16 passenger van. We had been given the dry bags a few days in advance so we could practice packing them. It took a few tries before I could get everything I needed and a few things I wanted to fit in the bag but I was successful as were the others. After introductions to each other and our three guides we set off for the Clearwater River.

We got to know one another during the drive, or at least got to know the people sitting nearest. Conversation began how it usually begins with questions and answers about occupations, families, etc., then turned to our individual outdoor adventure experiences. Time went by quickly and before long we found ourselves wheeling into Meadow Lake. We stopped in Meadow Lake to pick up two more adventure seekers and some essential "provisions." The van left Meadow Lake fully stocked with people and "provisions" and headed north.

The names of northern communities we drove past were a reminder of not only northern Saskatchewan's past but Canada's history as well. Names like "Beauval" and "Ile-a-la-Crosse" were a not so subtle homage to the French Voyageurs who explored their way through Canada before Canada became a nation. "Buffalo Narrows" was a reminder of why the Voyageurs were here in the first place, not only to explore but to identify resources that could be sent back to Europe. These thoughts increasingly passed through my mind as we neared our destination.

Soon we arrived at our put in point near Warner Rapids just north of the community of La Loche. We were greeted at our campsite by a delicious meal of moose stew, bannock and veggies that had been freshly prepared by local aboriginal women, just the thing after a long drive. After supper, our 3 guides Travis, Amy and Lee began to inflate the three rafts that would be our transportation for the next 4 days. The rest of us explored our surroundings a bit, taking photographs and commenting on the area's natural beauty then began to set up our first camp. The supplied tents went up easily which was good as darkness was soon upon us. We were soon sleeping soundly, lulled to sleep by Nature's gentle voice.

Day 2 - The Paddling Begins

We began day 2 with an expertly prepared hearty breakfast then set about striking camp. The rafts were loaded with all the supplies we would need for 4 days, including all of our personal effects packed into yellow dry bags. We were given instructions on how to paddle, assigned life jackets and helmets then we jumped into the rafts and were ready to face our first challenge, Warner Rapids. This rapid was relatively small but still provided us with much needed paddling practice.

We made it across Warner Rapids without much drama then upon entering deeper water, we lashed the three rafts together and used an outboard motor on the middle raft to get through calmer water. This gave us a chance to sit back, bask in the sun and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Our basking didn't last long however. Low water levels in the Clearwater caused by a drought meant the motor's propeller would often scrape the rocky river bottom. So we had to haul the motor out of the water and break out the paddles.

While paddling along, we encountered a large area of shoreline that had been swept by fire a few years earlier. The charred leafless trees were in stark contrast to the new green growth that was everywhere beneath them. It was in this area that we went ashore for what would be the first of many snack breaks. The "snack pails" were opened and all manner of treats were passed around. It was a time to stretch our legs and get to know each other a bit better. Then it was back into the rafts to continue our journey.

Every so often while floating down river a lone cabin would appear near the shore. These trapper's cabins are still in use today. We paused for lunch along the shore where the Descharme River joins the Clearwater near one of the cabins. Some of us hiked the short distance up the river bank to get a better look at the cabin while the others stayed by the river. After about 30 minutes, we pushed the rafts out into the river, hopped in and continued on our way.

Once past the point where the Descharme River joined the Clearwater, the nature of the river began to change. The sandy shoreline we had grown accustomed to transformed into rock and we began to raft around islands. It wasn't long before we reached the first serious rapids on our trip, Gould Rapids.

We landed the rafts on shore and hiked along an indistinct path to a viewpoint to ensure there were no fallen trees in or over the water on our intended route. We learned trees without branches that hung low over the water were called "scrapers" and trees with branches were called "strainers." We wanted to avoid these at all costs. The largest drop in this section was about 1.8 m / 6 ft. The path was clear so one by one we boarded the rafts and went through. Everyone got wet but no one went for an involuntary swim...yet. The next obstacle that lay in our path could not be rafted, Smoothstone Falls.

We made shore just upstream of Smoothstone Falls and began portaging all our gear to our campsite downstream of the falls. It was hard work. The portage was a moderately strenuous 2.4 km / 1.5 miles. I was wearing sandals in the raft that were perpetually wet. Portaging all that gear with wet feet wearing sandals was not the best situation. I wore the skin off the bottoms of my feet! Once all the gear arrived at the campsite, the tents were set up and supper was prepared by our three very capable guides. After supper some people set up their fishing rods and tried for Arctic Grayling while others relaxed by the shallow rapids just downhill from the campsite. I did the latter to let my feet recover.

Day 3 - Camp Day

All of day 3 was spent at camp 2. There was lots of fishing, hiking and relaxing going on. Smoothstone Falls was a destination for many people on day 3 while others in the group just relaxed in camp or caught some sun by the shallow rapids. The bottom of the falls proved to be a good fishing area. Many an Arctic Grayling was caught and released as well as Jackfish and I think one Perch, although that one may have got away. Lee, one of our guides, landed a number of Grayling fly fishing. A trip to the top of Smoothstone Falls was also rewarding.

I hiked to a spot overlooking Smoothstone Falls a number of times that day to try and get a decent photograph. The weather was again gorgeous. I found a good spot to set up my film camera and shot a few frames hoping one would be good. It was relaxing just to sit there and listen to the water.

Another activity on day 3 was a visit to "the showers." We re-traced our steps along the portage route, hopped in the rafts and rowed to the opposite shore above Smoothstone Falls. We followed yet another indistinct trail to a beautiful sun bathed area where water cascaded over rocks in a series of small falls (the showers). We showered and sunned ourselves on the warm rocks. A beautiful afternoon. After the showers was another training exercise.

We rowed out into a calm deep area of the river and practiced what to do if the raft overturned. I thought purposefully overturning a perfectly good raft was a bit silly, especially after we had all just showered, but we did it anyway. I momentarily got trapped under the overturned raft which led to a few anxious moments until I could get out from under it. The guides wanted us to climb on top of the raft which was more difficult than you might think. My life jacket kept getting caught on the side of the raft preventing me from climbing up. I finally made it after a few frustrating and exhausting attempts. We also practiced throwing "throw bags."

Throw bags are bags of rope that you throw to someone tossed out of a raft. You hang onto one end of the rope then throw the bag containing the rest of the rope over the shoulder of the person in the water and pull them in. This is the way it is supposed to work. Many of our throws fell short. I'm afraid that if we ever had to perform this manoeuvre we would probably have forgotten to hold onto one end of the rope and the poor person in the water would end up getting knocked unconscious by the bag. Fortunately, we never had reason to use a throw bag during the trip.

Day 4 - The Paddling Continues

Day four marked the beginning of the most intense day of rafting so far. We went over some big water. The day began with rafting over what became known as "the big drop" just downstream of Smoothstone Falls. Before the rafting could begin, we had to pack up camp and haul all the gear to the shallow rapids below our campsite. The guides deflated the rafts and portaged them around Smoothstone Falls as well. As the guides portaged the rafts, the rest of us re-inflated them. We ran "the big drop" without gear in the rafts to ensure we didn't lose anything and to make room for more paddlers. Extra paddlers would be needed to negotiate the drop. Once everything was prepared, one raft at a time went over "the big drop." Then, while going over "the big drop," something we all feared happened; someone went missing.

The rafts would approach the drop cautiously with all of us paddling to maintain proper positioning. As the rafts went over the drop, the front would plunge into the water then get kicked up violently by the force of the raging water. As one raft was going over "the big drop," it hit a rock then was kicked up throwing Janice overboard. Fortunately her husband Reg was right there to haul her back in. I'm sure it caused a bit of excitement among the paddlers. Janice wasn’t injured, just a bit shaken up. Reg and Janice will have a good story to tell.

Once the rafts went over "the big drop," they were paddled to the shore near the shallow rapids below our campsite and re-loaded with our gear. Wet and excited we set out for the final and most serious water we would encounter on the trip, Skull Canyon.

We negotiated some smaller rapids on our way to Skull Canyon then came ashore at another portage. This portage would take our gear around Skull Canyon so we could run the canyon with more paddlers in the rafts as we had done with “the big drop” earlier in the day. Thankfully, the portage was much shorter than the portage around Smoothstone Falls on day 2 had been. We paused at a campsite mid-way through portaging our gear for lunch, spaghetti and meatballs. We also hiked through an amazing moss and fern covered dry canyon to the rim of Skull Canyon to get a better look at it. When we finished portaging it was back into the rafts.

The guides wanted a different view on the water flowing through Skull Canyon so we paddled to the opposite shore and followed a disused trail up to another Skull Canyon viewpoint. When the guides were satisfied that everything was safe, off we went.

One by one the rafts positioned themselves. We approached the canyon carefully, the guides yelling paddling instructions to us. "Back front left," etc. rang out as we slowly approached the canyon entry. Then it happened. We were sucked through the entry, the water pushing the rafts around like toys, coming close to smashing them against the sheer rock cliffs. For some reason, I was the fifth person in my raft and as only an even number could paddle, ended up at the front of the raft with far too clear a view of what was happening. There was little for me to hang on to and without a paddle I felt rather helpless. Not that a paddle would have made a difference.

The raft plunged over a drop and was immediately swallowed. I remember being submerged for what seemed like a long time before the river spit us out the other end gasping for air - COOL!!! We paddled hard to turn around a corner out of the current to a point on shore where we had portaged our gear. We waded out into the shallow water and waited for the other rafts to come through, ready to grab anyone unlucky enough to have been thrown out. Once all the rafts were safely through, we loaded our portaged gear and paddled near the shore to our last campsite. We hauled our gear up a steep sandy slope and set up camp weary yet excited at what we had just done. There was much discussion of technique over the campfire that night.

Speaking of the campfire, our guides had a nice surprise for us; banana s'mores. They made them in foil and heated them over the fire. Delicious! It was a nice reward after a long day.

Day 5 - The Last Day

The next morning dawned with scattered showers. The eastern sky was clear at the horizon and as the sun rose a beautiful rainbow formed to the west. A good omen for the day. The morning began with the scavenging of firewood and the making of coffee once the fire was going. We hobbled about a bit after the exertion of the previous day but limbered up once we began moving around. We had breakfast then struck camp, loaded the rafts for the last time (?) and set off. We had come through the worst of the whitewater. What was left were a couple of long rapids: Aussie Downs and Simonson Rapids.

We navigated these rapids with the skill of people who had been rafting for three days. That is to say we got hung up on rocks a lot. After pausing for a mid-river snack from the now greatly valued "snack pail" we set out for our pick up point. However, there was one more rather innocent looking falls that the rafts would be taken over before reaching the pick up point . Once we reached it, all the gear had to be portaged, this time for only about 30 m / 100 ft. A couple of us were positioned at river level on the other side of the falls with a throw bag in case someone fell out of a raft. Shortly after we were in position the first raft came into view.

The paddlers were paddling furiously to position the raft properly to go over the falls but there was a problem. The current was taking them too far to the left and they were in danger of getting stuck against the rocks. That is exactly what happened. As they went over, not only did the current push them against the rocks but Amy, one of our guides, almost fell out. Fortunately she was quickly pulled in. Travis, the lead guide on the raft, then ordered all the paddlers to the "highside" of the raft. That is the side of the raft that was against the rocks. They jumped up and down on that side and eventually were able to get the raft back into the current again. With this first experience fresh in his mind, Travis led the other two rafts through without any problems. We then loaded the rafts (again) and ran a few more smaller rapids before entering a large deep lake connected to the river. This would be where the float plane would pick us up and fly us back to La Loche.

We paddled across the small lake to a clearing near shore. It was difficult work as there was no longer a current to carry us and we had a head wind. Once we made shore we unloaded the gear and spread it onto the clearing so the guides could organize it. Finally, the rafts were deflated and rolled up. It wasn't too long after the last raft had been rolled up that the float plane, a 1950's era "Beaver" arrived. 

The "Beaver" along with its larger cousin the "Otter" are the workhorses of the North. Aircraft such as these are the only practical way to move people and materiel around the North. Canada's de Havilland Aircraft stopped making the Beaver in 1967. The aircraft is renowned for its simplicity of operation and reliability and is a highly sought after aircraft even today. The Beaver is so popular that a Victoria, B.C. based company that manufactures parts for the aircraft bought the original designs from Bombardier Aerospace and is now producing a new and improved Beaver, much to the delight of northern pilots and airbase operators.

It took the Beaver four trips to transport all the gear and all of us to La Loche. I was on the last trip along with Travis, Bob and Jim. This was fortunate as Travis asked the pilot to deviate from his route and fly over Skull Canyon.

Skull Canyon is formed by an island that divides the Clearwater River in two. The canyon got its name from the shape of the island as seen from the air. This was our opportunity to see for ourselves whether the canyon was aptly named.

Once we had loaded the remainder of the gear (again) and the pilot had fuelled the plane from the red gas cans he had unloaded when he first landed, Travis, Bob, Jim and I climbed aboard. I had hoped to take some aerial photographs of Skull Canyon but unfortunately events conspired against me as far as getting good aerial photographs went. The plane vibrated quite a bit, three of us were squeezed into an area that would have been a tight fit for two and I didn't have very fast film (yes, film) in my camera. Most of the photographs I took turned out blurry but the one of Skull Canyon was sharp enough to see the shape of the island. I thought the island’s shape resembled a skull.

By the time we landed at La Loche the others had already loaded most of the gear (again) into the trailer behind the van. We had a quick lunch then piled into the van for the long drive back to Saskatoon. The return trip was much quieter than the drive out had been. Some of us were tired while others were deep in thought; perhaps thinking about their experiences on the river. We stopped in Meadow Lake to see Larry and Donna off then continued to Saskatoon.

We said our good-bye's to each other and to our guides as we were dropped off then went our separate ways full of memories of our time whitewater rafting on northern Saskatchewan's Clearwater River.